Amid the macro-level number debate, one product category has data that most clearly reveals the scale of Indonesia's informal market: used clothing.
Officially, BPS data records imports of used clothing and textiles under HS code 63090000 jumping from 12.9 tons (2023) to 3,865.4 tons (2024), then 1,243 tons in January to August 2025. This figure is already odd on its own. This category has been fully banned since Trade Ministry Regulation (Permendag) 40/2022, a ban reinforced again by Permendag 47/2025, which took full effect in early 2026. Banned goods shouldn't have any official import figures at all, let alone ones that keep rising year over year.
But it turns out this BPS figure is just the tip of the iceberg, and the sheer size of the unseen portion is itself the strongest evidence of how large actual demand for the preloved market in Indonesia really is. Research from the NEXT Indonesia Center found that over the last two decades (2005 to 2024), Indonesia's official customs records for this HS code total only USD 16.4 million cumulatively. Compare that with export data from trading-partner countries reflected in UN Comtrade, the UN's official database, which shows a figure of USD 607.4 million for the same goods heading to Indonesia. The gap is about 37 times over.
The most striking difference shows up in the countries of origin. Based on Indonesia's official data, the top ten origin countries are dominated by the UK, the United States, and Japan, a pattern consistent with personal relocation goods, as explained by the Trade Ministry. However, UN Comtrade data tells a different story. Malaysia, Singapore, and China are recorded as the largest exporters of used clothing to Indonesia, even though the three barely appear in BPS's official top ten. The largest trade route turns out to be the one least visible in official statistics, a pattern that, in international trade analysis, is often associated with invoice manipulation (misinvoicing) or unofficial entry channels. The data available in this research doesn't allow the author to pin down the specific cause, but the sheer size of the recording gap remains strong evidence that the real market is far bigger than what official statistics capture.
This explains why raids keep happening even though they've never truly stopped the supply. Finance Minister Purbaya Yudhi Sadewa has openly called used-clothing imports an illegal activity that harms the state, and the government has stepped up raids at various ports.
However, as long as the gap between official records and trade reality remains this large, enforcement at entry points alone won't be enough to stem demand that clearly exists. For readers who gauge purchasing power through the lens of official data, this is an important reminder: if a single product category alone can have a recording gap this large, it's not unlikely that similar patterns exist in other informal channels, such as livestream selling and social-media stalls, which notably carry no equivalent reporting obligation. How far this pattern extends into those channels certainly needs its own verification, but the finding in the used-clothing category is at least a signal that official data may be underestimating the scale of informal economic activity more broadly.
Beyond untracked trade routes, there's also a factor that's purely about lifestyle, and this is what will keep the preloved market from shrinking no matter how much raids intensify. Academic research by Iva Latifa (2025), titled "Exploring Interest in the Thrifting Trend Among Generation Z: An Analysis Using Max Weber's Theory of Social Action," on thrifting culture among Indonesian Gen Z shows the reasons go beyond price. Thrifting has become part of lifestyle and identity expression, with branded or vintage secondhand items seen as exclusive precisely because not many people own them.